Question??About strips
to reverse direction
(Wood Flooring Splines)



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Question??About reversing strips (Wood Flooring Splines)

On Mon, 2 Jan 2006 13:25:58 frank said:

I have just a simple question.I Think. Im building a new home and I'm installing bruce 2.25 oak strips, prefinished boards.

I had to start my rows 3 feet from the front door so I could have a continous run from one side of the house to the other. Do I have to make the tongues to go into the groves to run back to the wall? Currently the groove portion is facing the wall and I need a tongue to be facing the wall.

Can I purchase these reversing strips or splines as some call it? Or how do you make these and out of what type of wood should I use?

Thank You

Frank I responded to this email:

This is fairly easy to do. Go to either Home Depot or Lowe's and go to the paint department. You need to ask for stir sticks for 5 gallon buckets. They're FREE!! At Home Depot they will say "Behr" on them and at Lowe's they say "Lowe's"

These stir sticks are a perfect 1/4 inch thick which fits snug in the groove. All you need to do is cut them into strips 3/8" wide. You can do this on a table saw or with a jig saw.

Generally when I use a table saw I get three splines per paint stick. For safety cut half way thru the stick and then cut it from the other direction so you never get your fingers near the blade.

When I use my jig saw I get four splines per stick. I usually draw the lines on the stick with a pencil so they are relatively straight cuts.

I have installed both the Natural and the Gunstock Prefinished Bruce flooring. It makes an awesome floor. Usually the cost difference between unfinished flooring and the prefinished flooring is a dollar so it's a great way to go.

I think you may find these pictures helpful. These pictures are where I am getting ready to change direction. I moved the refriderator out as far as I could without disconnecting the water lines of power cord. I then installed to the wall. Using 1/4 inch masonite I rolled the refriderator back into place. There is a scrap piece of wood which I nailed to follow a chalkline. I nail up up against this with the first board so it starts out straight.

This is a picture showing installing the first row in a kitchen. 
I started this installation in the middle of the kitchen for two reasons. 
You should install from critical measurements to non critical measurements.  
The critical measurement here was a nice straight line looking at the floor 
from the entryway where I am standing to take this picture.  The other reason 
was the refriderator.  I wanted to roll the refriderator out on the subfloor, 
install the floor where it was going to go and move it once across the 
floor to where it would stay.  I am using the tape measure here to make sure it 
is straight with the seam in the subfloor.

You can see in the distance the entryway floor. I installed that floor 
a year prior to when I was asked to install this kitchen floor.  Normally 
I install left to right because I'm right handed.  This is an exception because 
I wanted the tongues of the prefinished flooring to lock into the header board.
You can see my air powered Bostitch flooring nailer in this picture.  I use 
1/4 inch air hoses because they can handle more pressure than larger hoses 
and are easier to work with.  The light board is actually 1 x 2 pine.  This is 
a temporary board as are the scrap oak in the same row.  These keep the first 
row straight and will be removed once the flooring is nailed all the way to the 
wall on the left.

Franklyn,

http://woodfloorist.com

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