On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 15:21:14 -0800 (PST), "Chris" said:
I found your site purely by accident but it was like finding diamonds in
the concrete.
I am going to think you mean my site was a value like a diamond as it's
darn near impossible to search for anything online about wood floors without
finding my website. I actually teach people how to get top placement on
search engines. See http://woodfloorist.com/1/Searchengineoptimization.html
It's nice to come across another craftsman (I'm an
electrician by trade) who lives by the same philosophy as I do.
I've hear that electricians are "short" people. Is that true?
While I am an electrician by trade I have had previous experience with
wood. In my early days I worked with an old timer who taught me the
proper techniques of home framing and since then have gained some
experience in finishing. Crown moulding remains my weak point, however I
have had good experience as long as I take my time and being careful.
Crown molding is an angle problem which is usually NOT a 45 degree angle and a good coping saw. I know enough to leave the crown molding to those who do it well.
I have never installed T&G flooring and am interested in placing it
throughout my entire second floor of my home. 5 bedrooms and a 20'+
hallway. I will remove all of the "builder special" base trim and replace
it with red oak baseboard, though we have not yet decided what baseboard
design..
I assume by "builder special" you have a house where door casing was used as both casing and baseboard. I see that a lot.
I have read up on some of the installation blogs floating around and have
gained a bit of insight as to the direction to go but, I would feel
better with the advice of a professional. So, having said that, here we
go!!..
You can ask 10 people and get 10 different answers.
1) I talked with a distributor who has a special on some #3 red oak for
99 cents a sq ft. I looked at a sample and it is rough and he also told
me that there may be some pieces with the spline missing in parts of the
board. He went on to say that the missing spline would not make any
difference once it is nailed down.!!..
Translation: Once you have nailed it down and your check has cleared it makes no difference because you can't return it anyway.
I didn't argue his point since i'm not an expert but that didn't sound right to me.
It's right from his point of view. (see translation above) It's not right from your point of view.
While a 4' piece with 3-4"
of spline missing probably wouldn't be a problem I would think any more
than that is definitely a BIG problem.
With #3 you are actually using firewood for flooring. If that's the look you want then that's OK as long as you know what it is you're using. Some people LOVE the rustic look. I fill a lot of the voids with Latex wood filler and the knot holes with clear epoxy. Makes a dinamite looking floor but it requires a little more work.
The #2 is $2.10 which makes the 99
cent sound good on the surface, but not if I have to throw half of it
away. Your thoughts ?
The cost is one issue. You're basically getting the flooring which didn't make the standards for #2. They sort it all out after they make it. You might have a lot of waste but usually you can find ways to use a lot of it by cutting the waste out and using the piece as a starter or ender board up against the wall. Every mill differs what is #3 so that is hard to say. What you can personally live with is another factor. What one person thinks is a crap piece of flooring is the beautiful piece of flooring to someone else. I've actually had customers who see me racking the floor so not so nice pieces end up under the cabinets and move that piece to the center of the floor.
2)Nailers. I see staplers and nailers. I'm inclined to go the nailer
route which drives the 2" barbed cleat as opposed to the staple (Hey! I
thought staplers were for paper!). The old timer trainer training tells
me to go with the nailer. Again, your thoughts.
I have both and use both. I have been in the business over 30 years. I have installed gyms with a manual Powernailer. I usually use the Powernailer for jobs that are too small to bother hauling a compressor in, jobs where the customer is using the Bostich Stapler so we have two nailers going, jobs where I am going to leave the customer with the nailer, jobs where I am teaching as going from a manual nailer to a air driven stapler is easier than going from air to manual or jobs where I just feel like wailing on a nailer. The Bostich stapler is definitely easier to use. I can actually drive a staple in with my fist.
3) Field cut joints. All of the factory joints are T&G, and on a normal
square room with nothing fancy I would not need to make any cuts except
for endwall cuts. But what about those situations where there may be a
miter or where my floor design calls for a 45 or 90 change of direction?
Should I not rig my router with a tongue(or groove) bit so that ALL
joints are locked?
As a craftsman I have one router which is a dedicated slotting router.
That's all I use it for. The old one I had I wore out.
It's pictured on the bottom of the page at http://www.woodfloorist.com/contact.html
Mom is calling me to dinner, I'll let you peruse these and ask more
later.
At least you have your priorities right. I mean who can think about floors when the food is on.
Oh and by the way this is my
Newest Webpage
Thanks, Chris, Columbus,OH
Additional Suggested Search Terms for Installation
ceramic tile installation, car stereo installation, carpet installation,
hardwood floor installation, car audio installation, window installation,
garage door installation, satellite dish installation, crown molding installation,
laminate floor installation, drywall installation, home theater installation,
toilet installation, bathtub installation, wood floor installation,
metal roof installation, dishwasher installation, sunroof installation,
installation art, car stereo installation kits, vinyl siding installation,
granite countertop installation, car radio installation, plasma tv installation,
water heater installation, car audio installation guide,
network cabling installation, pocket door installation, installation wizard,
car speaker installation, shower installation, remote car starter installation,
carpet installation prices, hp printer installation, windows xp installation,
ceiling fan installation, wood stove installation, sump pump installation,
car seat installation, car alarm installation, flash player installation,
tile floor installation, sbc dsl installation, fence installation,
hot tub installation, pergo floor installation, flooring installation,
swimming pool installation, java installation, hard drive installation,
military installation, bamboo flooring installation, cable installation,
installation instructions, software installation, cabinet installation,
septic tank installation, garage door opener installation, electrical installation,
installation management agency, fireplace installation, yahoo messenger installation,
shower pan installation, sheetrock installation, ipod installation cd,
amp installation, replacement window installation, phone jack installation,
glass block installation, gutter installation, marble tile installation,
repair windows xp installation, quicktime installation,
car audio installation schools, directv installation, furnace installation,
activex installation, telephone installation, surround sound installation,
car stereo installation guide, xm radio installation, carpet installation tools,
subwoofer installation, dota installation guide, kitchen sink installation,
hp printer installation software, thermostat installation, amplifier installation,
insulation installation, carpet installation cost, plumbing installation,
interior door installation, garbage disposal installation,
kitchen cabinet installation, solar panel installation,
business telephone installation uk, motherboard installation,
difference between floppy disk and cd-rom installation, car cd player installation,
linux installation